Retinoids, aka vitamin A derivatives, are known for being some of the most studied skincare ingredients around. They’re used on the skin for a variety of purposes, with each retinoid working in a slightly different way.

While there are many factors to consider when deciding which retinoid to use on your skin, tretinoin is one that has recently been in the spotlight. Hailed on social media as being a holy grail ingredient, more and more people have been seeking it out…only to find that it sometimes ends up causing more harm than good to their skin. 

If you’ve been wondering whether or not to give tretinoin a try, read on as Vivo Per Lei takes a closer look at the pros and cons of this ingredient, along with how other topical retinoids compare. 

What is Tretinoin?

Tretinoin is a form of vitamin A that was originally created as a way to tackle the appearance of acne. In addition to being useful for acne-prone skin, tretinoin can also:

• Reduce the visible signs of skin aging
• Lighten the look of hyperpigmentation
• Give the skin’s texture a smoother feel
• Leaves the skin feeling bouncier and more elastic

The Downsides of Tretinoin

One of the main differences between tretinoin and other retinoids is its potency. It’s the most powerful topical retinoid available, which is why many people automatically assume that it’s the best.

However, this isn’t necessarily the case…

Although there’s no arguing with the potency of tretinoin, this also means that the ingredient is notorious for its side effects. It’s very common to experience irritation, peeling, and itchiness after adding tretinoin to your skincare routine. This makes it an ingredient that needs careful management. This is one of the reasons why it’s a prescription-only ingredient. You won’t be able to give it a try unless you first speak to a dermatologist or doctor.

Tretinoin is also known for increasing photosensitivity. This means that the skin becomes more vulnerable to UV damage, which can then exacerbate the skin problems that you’re trying to treat. It doesn’t do the skin barrier any favors either. Tretinoin commonly triggers inflammation, interfering with barrier function. As you can imagine, it’s an ingredient that sensitive skin types struggle to tolerate. With that said, other skin types often experience the same.

What Are Your Other Options?

Unless you’re dealing with extremely severe acne breakouts that other retinoids have failed to help with, tretinoin isn’t an ingredient that you should be immediately gravitating to. In fact, many dermatologists have spoken out against the irresponsibility of influencers who have been promoting the ingredient lately, especially when there are various other, much safer, options that you should be turning to first.

Retinyl Palmitate 

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Retinyl palmitate is a great introductory ingredient to retinoids if you’re completely new to them. Also known as vitamin A palmitate, this antioxidant is created by combining retinol with palmitic acid, which is a type of fatty acid. This lowers the potency of the ingredient in a way that makes it suitable for all skin types.

Thanks to its gentler nature, retinyl palmitate isn’t associated with the same side effects that the more powerful retinoids are. It gives your skin a non-irritating way to start growing accustomed to retinoids, after which you could then level up to a more powerful vitamin A derivative.

With that said, although gentle, retinyl palmitate has been proven to benefit the skin in a number of ways. Studies show that it’s able to reduce the appearance of photo-aging, meaning wrinkles and dark spots that have been caused by UV rays. With the sun being responsible for up to 80% of the visible signs of aging that develop on the face, retinyl palmitate can make a hefty difference to the complexion! 

If you’d like to begin your retinoid journey with retinyl palmitate, you’ll find the ingredient in a few Vivo Per Lei products. The Collagen Foaming Cleanser enables you to kick off your routine with it, with this lush cleanser featuring a skin-loving array of vitamins. 

The Activated Charcoal Facial Mask also boasts a blend of vitamins, and retinyl palmitate is one. They’re joined by a variety of hydrating ingredients and antioxidant-rich plant extracts. Together, they make this mask capable of quickly brightening and reviving the look of the skin.

Retinol

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Looking for a retinoid that’s more powerful than retinyl palmitate yet not as harsh as tretinoin? Retinol is what you need! This vitamin A derivative has been trending too but, this time, for good reason! The extra potency offered by retinol means that visible results are noticed much sooner. It’s also a better weapon against the appearance of acne than retinyl palmitate. Again, it brings about changes in the complexion much faster.

With that said, retinol doesn’t always come without its side effects. Skin purging is a common issue when retinol is first used. This refers to the redness, dryness, flaking, and pimples that can occur when the retinol first kicks into action. This is why it can be helpful to start with retinyl palmitate before moving on to retinol – you’ll minimize your chances of experiencing a serious skin purge! 

If you’d like to add retinol to your skincare routine, the Vivo Per Lei 24K Gold Caviar Serum makes this easy. Each application of the serum is contained in a capsule. Simply break one open, apply the silky serum to your skin, and you’ll be giving your skin just the right amount of retinol. In this formula, it’s joined by some super-hydrating ingredients, including sodium hyaluronate, beta-glucan, and caviar extract. They’ll help to counter the potential feeling of dryness that a skin purge can cause.

The Vivo Per Lei Snow Mushroom Night Cream also contains retinol. Again, it’s combined with hydrating and moisturizing ingredients to keep the skin feeling calm and smooth. This is a great cream to try if you’ve been struggling with dehydrated skin! 

Using Retinoids Safely

In the end, whether you decide to opt for tretinoin, retinol, or anything else, it’s important to remember that retinoids are influential actives that need to be used correctly. To ensure that you’re getting the most out of your chosen retinoid, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Give Your Skin a Gradual Introduction

As we’ve already mentioned, it can take the skin a few weeks to grow accustomed to retinoids. A gradual introduction, as opposed to slathering your face with it twice a day every day, can help to encourage tolerance with minimal side effects.

Start by using your retinoid every other day, or even every three days if you have sensitive skin. You’ll only need a pea-sized amount of your chosen product – don’t overdo it! After a few weeks, once you’re certain that your skin is comfortable with the ingredient, you can then build up to using it daily, or even twice a day if needed.

Always Protect Your Skin From the Sun

Yes, it’s true, retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. While some choose to save their retinoid usage for the evenings in an attempt to prevent this, the effects of a retinoid won’t really wear off by the next morning. Instead, go ahead and use retinoids in the daytime too. However, make sure that you’re also protecting your skin from the sun.

Ideally, use a mineral sunscreen rather than a chemical one. These block UV rays by deflecting them away. This prevents those UV rays from having any sort of contact with the retinoids on your skin.

Try Buffering If Irritation Occurs 

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If you’re still experiencing irritation from your retinoid, even after opting for a gentle derivative and introducing it gradually, try buffering. This is when you apply a retinoid serum over the top of a moisturizer, instead of underneath. This essentially dilutes the retinoid, lowering its potency and helping your skin to better tolerate it. Over time, you can slowly start to apply it underneath your moisturizer once again.

The Vivo Per Lei Marine Ultimate All Skin Cream is a great moisturizer to try buffering with. It’s intensely hydrating but also contains shea butter as an occlusive. This will form a sturdy barrier between your skin and your retinoid, slowing absorption to reduce potential side effects.

Store Your Retinoid Products Correctly

Just like when it comes to any active skincare ingredient, retinoid products need to be stored correctly. Get this wrong and the retinoids in those products will only end up deteriorating. Not only does this mean that they won’t work in the way that they should, but they could also oxidize in a way that damages your skin when applied topically.

What does correct storage involve? Since retinoids are sensitive to light and air, they need to be stored in the dark. The packaging of your retinoid product should hopefully be airtight. If it’s not, this could be a sign of an inferior product. 

Retinoids should also not be exposed to big temperature or humidity fluctuations. Ideally, they should be kept in cool and dry conditions to maintain efficacy.

Know When to Not Use Retinoids

As beneficial as retinoids can be, avoid using them if:

• You’re pregnant or breastfeeding
• You have a sunburn
• Your skin is broken or irritated in any way
• You’re about to have a professional skin treatment carried out, such as microdermabrasion or laser skin resurfacing
• You know that you’re going to be spending an extended amount of time in the sun, such as when you’re on a beach vacation

Final Thoughts on Tretinoin

There’s no denying that tretinoin is a very worthy skincare ingredient. However, the hype that currently surrounds it isn’t valid, particularly since this ingredient can only be used if you have a prescription for it. 

With that said, while the tretinoin bandwagon isn’t one that you should immediately jump onto, don’t shun the other retinoids out there! These ingredients can help with such a wide variety of visible skin concerns, making it worth seriously considering adding one to your routine. So long as you pick a retinoid product that’s suitable for your skin type, you should soon start to see some improvements in your complexion.

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